zx14 small tire build - some questions

[Rat Salad]

I am in the process of having a small tire chassis built utilizing a zx14 motor.

I am planning on using the stock motor and wiring as well as fuel injection. I want a somewhat dependable push button bike that will run a good number. I really like the Rock Solid hand slider but can't find a lot of info on guys running these clutches. I want to be able to run the bike by myself with no pit crew.

Ultimately, I would like to see Top Gas numbers with the bike, but don't think I will be able to see them with this set up. Any ideas from the crowd concerning this? It will be my first chassis bike. I have always drag raced extended street bikes.

I should get my chassis in about 6 weeks and begin the motor transplant.

What else would I need to reach the 8.20 mark? i welcome all suggestions and comments.

Thanks!

[MATHEWS]

Call Bob at Rock Solid,he is extremely helpful.Great clutch

[thomas malley]

i think to reach 8.20 you will need either a shot of nitrous or maybe a 2 x 4 bore and stroke. I have a chassis and car tire bike and have managed 8.80's but i,m also 225 lbs

[trganey]

We ran 8.70's with a big tire set up just like your talking about with a bone stock motor and a fly weight rider. We were running a MTC slider. We've since went with a Adams 2x4 and so far managed a 7.96 at Valdosta. We are still running the stock wiring harness, fuel injection, ecu etc,etc. There's a couple small pit falls that you need to address to save time, money and confusion. I'm at work now but will try to take time to elaborate during my lunch break.

[Rat Salad]

We ran 8.70's with a big tire set up just like your talking about with a bone stock motor and a fly weight rider. We were running a MTC slider. We've since went with a Adams 2x4 and so far managed a 7.96 at Valdosta. We are still running the stock wiring harness, fuel injection, ecu etc,etc. There's a couple small pit falls that you need to address to save time, money and confusion. I'm at work now but will try to take time to elaborate during my lunch break.

I would definitely like to hear about the saving of time, money and confusion. If you want to PM me your number and a time convenient to talk, I'll call you as I'm sure its quite a bit to type out. Thanks a bunch.

[thomasmalley]

come on now, share the knowledge, Expand the zx14 dragbike world

[trganey]

1. If you do not run the stock ignition switch make sure that you install a 100ohm resistor in line or it will burn up the ecu.

2. Make sure that you have a reference for the speed sensor or the ecu will set a 10krpm rev limit and you'll be wondering why it won't shift. Our shift point was 10,250 and it wasn't until we put that data logger on it that we figured out why we was having shifting problems.

3. Make sure that when you start culling wires out of the wiring harness that you keep all the connectors and leave some wire on them so you can wire them up if necessary. Keep an extra dash board that you can hook up in the pits and check for error codes.

4. Make sure that you run some kind of air box. Mine is home made and ugly as sin but it works.

5. Do Not run a straight pipe that is the same diameter all the way to the end. The bottom end torque is good but it kills the top end. When I put the side winder mega phone back on it picked up big time on the dyno and the et returned.

If you have questions shoot me an email and I'll try to help if I can. Thankfully there are begining to be a few of us running these as drag bikes and the more that do the more information that will come out and be available. There have been a ton of folks that have help us get going but Chris Jones help has been priceless. His knowledge of the ZX14 platform is huge!

Tim Ganey
Ganey Racing Team
Winfield, Alabama
trganey@yahoo.com (trganey@yahoo.com)
205-657-6356 after 5:00pm

[Rat Salad]

1. If you do not run the stock ignition switch make sure that you install a 100ohm resistor in line or it will burn up the ecu.

2. Make sure that you have a reference for the speed sensor or the ecu will set a 10krpm rev limit and you'll be wondering why it won't shift. Our shift point was 10,250 and it wasn't until we put that data logger on it that we figured out why we was having shifting problems.

3. Make sure that when you start culling wires out of the wiring harness that you keep all the connectors and leave some wire on them so you can wire them up if necessary. Keep an extra dash board that you can hook up in the pits and check for error codes.

4. Make sure that you run some kind of air box. Mine is home made and ugly as sin but it works.

5. Do Not run a straight pipe that is the same diameter all the way to the end. The bottom end torque is good but it kills the top end. When I put the side winder mega phone back on it picked up big time on the dyno and the et returned.

If you have questions shoot me an email and I'll try to help if I can. Thankfully there are begining to be a few of us running these as drag bikes and the more that do the more information that will come out and be available. There have been a ton of folks that have help us get going but Chris Jones help has been priceless. His knowledge of the ZX14 platform is huge!

Tim Ganey
Ganey Racing Team
Winfield, Alabama
trganey@yahoo.com (trganey@yahoo.com)
205-657-6356 after 5:00pm

Your insight is most appreciated. I hope to have the chassis next month and have everything going by the end of the year.

Rat

[W. Baxter]

We set our bike up differently, just a set of 40mm Lectrons and a Schnitz box. Runs good and has about two miles less wiring than stock...ha.

[thomasmalley]

44's and mc4 for me

[Rat Salad]

1. If you do not run the stock ignition switch make sure that you install a 100ohm resistor in line or it will burn up the ecu.

2. Make sure that you have a reference for the speed sensor or the ecu will set a 10krpm rev limit and you'll be wondering why it won't shift. Our shift point was 10,250 and it wasn't until we put that data logger on it that we figured out why we was having shifting problems.

3. Make sure that when you start culling wires out of the wiring harness that you keep all the connectors and leave some wire on them so you can wire them up if necessary. Keep an extra dash board that you can hook up in the pits and check for error codes.

4. Make sure that you run some kind of air box. Mine is home made and ugly as sin but it works.

5. Do Not run a straight pipe that is the same diameter all the way to the end. The bottom end torque is good but it kills the top end. When I put the side winder mega phone back on it picked up big time on the dyno and the et returned.

If you have questions shoot me an email and I'll try to help if I can. Thankfully there are begining to be a few of us running these as drag bikes and the more that do the more information that will come out and be available. There have been a ton of folks that have help us get going but Chris Jones help has been priceless. His knowledge of the ZX14 platform is huge!

Tim Ganey
Ganey Racing Team
Winfield, Alabama
trganey@yahoo.com (trganey@yahoo.com)
205-657-6356 after 5:00pm




Hey Tim,

A question on the speed sensor. What did you use for a trigger? I'm not sure how to set this up. Again, I'm hoping to use the stock sensor as I know I need it for my sb6.

Thanks.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii210/64panhead/ZX-14SMTIRE006.jpg

[trganey]

Sent you some pic's in an email. Hope it helps. If not give me a shout.