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Thread: Engine Building 101

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  1. #1
    Administrator Brandi's Avatar
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    James McGee - Wednesday, November 12, 2003 - 04:16 pm

    The bearings were more expensive than the bolts, Rod bearings,Rod bolts
    and crank bearings 281.00.....There has to be a cheaper way than
    Genuine Kawasaki....

    ----------------------------------------------------------

    Keith Neuens - Wednesday, November 12, 2003 - 10:41 pm

    James,

    There is a mail order house www.cycle-parts.com. They ask to to e-mail
    them the OEM part numbers that you are looking for and they will mail
    you back a quote. The prices are better than Kawasaki but the good part
    is you are buying genuine Kawasaki parts. I have ordered from them, the
    only item is a 2-3 week delivery as they do not stock and there is a
    minimum order ($100 I think).

    Keith

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    KRIS VERREN - Thursday, November 13, 2003 - 01:13 pm

    James,

    For the PJ1 paint try Dennis Kirk motorcycle accessories it is called
    Fast Black high gloss.This stuff is the best! I use it on all my
    engines and it will not fade and stays shiny for years.

    ----------------------------------------------------------

    James McGee - Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 05:13 pm Help! Im now ready
    to put the cases back together . the book says the balancer shaft has
    to set in a certain way, But it dosent say how the crank has to set in
    relation to it, the gears go toghther so I figure it has to matter. any
    help

    (zx10/11)

    Thanks

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    Roland Tamaccio - Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 08:42 pm

    Jim, you might wqnt to leave it out.

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    James McGee - Monday, November 17, 2003 - 06:22 pm

    That was my first intention but was told to keep it since I will be force feeding her...

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    Roland Tamaccio - Monday, November 17, 2003 - 09:28 pm

    Jim, seek another opinion. BTW, some pressure on the intake stroke will tame 'er somewhat.

    ----------------------------------------------------------

    Keith Neuens - Monday, November 17, 2003 - 10:47 pm

    James,

    If you want to keep the balancer the procedure for setting it is: The
    balancer weight is installed 180 degrees from the mark on the gear
    located near the rubber dampers. The balancer shaft has a line on the
    end of it. Make sure it points to the front and clamp the arm. Start
    engine and let it idle, loosen clamp and turn balancer shaft
    counterclockwise until balancer gear makes noise, turn the shaft
    clockwise unti the noise goes away and tighten the clamp.

    If you want to get rid of the balancer, which I do in all my race
    engines then all is needed is to plug the oil hole to prevent oil from
    getting into shaft. The oil entered on the far end of shaft and was
    transmitted back to lubricate balancer weight. I weld them shut. I can
    send you a diagram if you're interested. This is worth a couple HP.
    brandi@dragbike.com - Email me with site suggestions, complaints or praise. I am here to help!

  2. #2
    James
    Guest


    Keith, Please send me the diagram you were speaking of.



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