There is a series called the Show Me The Money Tour here in Ontario that runs on air strips in small Northern towns (cars, sleds, and bikes), eighth mile only. It's actually becoming quite large and a lot of fun, however, I wouldn't dare run my car tire bike there with my good motor due to spotty traction at best (although one town, North Bay,has actually installed a concrete launching pad right on the runway if you can believe it).
I have a bone stock 82 GS 1100 motor that I'd like to modify somewhat to use to run the tour in the future (not this year).
Would appreciate suggestions about what I could do at a reasonable price to safely use the motor (won't grenade and hurt me).
I assume that I would want to at least have the crank checked and welded, have the head updated with some new valves and spring, new pistons and rings (perhaps a new block), change the cams, check and undercut the trans.
I also don't want to go 1-2 or 1-2-3 Auto, just kill through the gears.
I also have a slider that I would use for sure.
Is there a pretty standard, cost effective, approach to building a reliable GS 1100 motor that you are not too concerned with how fast it will run
Thanks for your thoughts here.
Also, I need to take the motor out of the frame.
I've stripped the bike down to the bare frame, still rolling (forks, swingarm, and wheels still attached, so I could hide it from my wife).
I'm not quite sure how to take the motor out of the frame on my own, without hurting either me or the motor. I though I could lay the bike over on it's side (not sure which), on the lawn where it's soft (really soft lately due to all the rain we've had in Toront), unbolt everything, and then lift the frame off the motor.
I've got an engine stand that I'd bolt to the motor, then lift it upright.
Does this sound like a plan Are there better ways to do it on my own
Am I being silly
I've removed motors that way ,, but they dont go back in easy that way ,, glad I dont have to hide stuff ,,, an 82" wb chassis would need too much camoflage [img]smileys/smiley8.gif[/img]
nothing is cost effective in drag racing.. generally to get the crank done by falicon or GRC your looking at $1500 (all USD) to get a head rebuilt with new valves springs ETC your all of $700 and thats no real porting work involved, pistons $400-500, big block $500 or more, tranny work $200-300, cams 350-400, so with my quick math your looking at close to $4000 and thats a fairly stock fresh head and not including the clutch setup thats gonna run low nines maybe high 8's due to light headwork.... the funny part is i have had my GS motor for sale for a few months(push button start ,big head, crank work, billet input shaft, ETCwith a slider that runs 8.30's)for $4000 and people only wanted to give me about $3500 for it, you cant come close to building a motor for anywhere near that price even if you start with all the pieces from a bone stock motor, i just dont get it........
sad fact GSXR ,, but that is the way in all racing roundy or drags ,, bikes or cars ,, I got a roller for $6500 ,,, about $15,000.00 worth if I built from scratch ,, I think its the only time a racer can feel like hes getting ahead is starting out
i just dont get it........ <<
I can understand you point, definitely.
In my case though, I've always wanted to learn how to build up a GS motor (take it apart, and put it back together successfully), so it's kind of a personal experience too (if you get my drift).
Of course, one could argue that buying something already built, and saving some bucks, would still allow someone to take it apart and put it back together as a learning experience.
Which leaves me with the only remaining issue, that being that I don't want anything too stout given the marginal track services and the short eighth mile distance.
Whether I'll do it now, as I thought, or just pull the motor and put it on the shelf, is the subject of further debate within the mass between my ears.
Regards, as always.
It can be done by 1 person, although it can strain your 'nads.
Take off all the induction down to the head
Remove valve cover,to give you some extra room to lift the motor up out of the cradle, BTW it will only come out on the left side.
Remove all mounts doing the lower ones last, be sure to remove the brackets.
Set the bike straight as possibe, straddle the bike and lift up on the head to free it from the mounts, clearing the oilpan, then lift up the rear of the motor to level it, thenslide, it to the left on wood blocking that you placed level with the frame. You can use a floor jack to assist in lifting the motor up but you willstill have to lift it over the frame rail.
Set it on the floor and have someone help you lift it to the bench.
getting the motor in and out is a PITA, i've done it myself with the motor complete from oil pan to valve cover several times, sometimes its easier alone than trying to fight what the other person is doing trying to help you, I'll tell you though carrying that motor myself down the steps into my basement is quite the workout.... glad i only take it to the basement every other race season!!!!!
I'll tell you though carrying that motor myself down the steps into my basement is quite the workout....<<
Wow, I can't image someone being able to do that (I think the motor weighs more than 170 pounds).
I'm arranging to get someone to help me take the motor out so I don't strain my milk.
Dick, thanks for the advice, I didn't know about that left side thing.
|« Previous Thread | Next Thread »|