|
|
There was a "low height" engine hoist made to bolt in the bed of a pickup truck that worked nice when I made a rolling frame for it.You can reach right in below the top frame rail.Or use a regular automotive type engine hoist and "dodge" the top frame rail. Attach a chain from the front mount around the cylinder block back to the front mount on the other side. The motor will set close to balance point and can lift straight up. I do it this way to go from bike to engine stand and back. Really saves the back.
come-along to the ceiling ,, a couple tiedown straps ,, cake
NOS
O.K., I've got the engine out of the frame (stripped the bike, layed it on it's side on the lawn, dropped the motor, piece of cake).
I've got the head and block off the bike, the clutch out, with all the little bits taken off (that don't need special tools).
Now, I need to pull off the parts off the left side (starter gear, generator, etc.) and it appears there is a special puller to do so.
Is this an inexpensive thing to buy If not, then I'd buy one to keep.
Can I split the cases before having the parts pulled off (then take the crank to the Suzuki dealer to have them pull the stuff off)
The motor looks so clean inside, with no cylinder ridge, the cam and cam followers look super smooth, and the piston and rings look so clean with the rings moving freely, etc.
So I'm hoping I've got a good core to work on.
Regards.
David,
I've got my 1325 apart & it's going back together 1500cc. GS's are a no-brainer. Just lay all the clutch parts out somewhere safe - arrange them so you know exactly how all the little things go back inside towards the center of the motor. Take your time, make notes, buy plastic baggies, jot things down. BE TEDIOUS. Make sure you have all the main case bolts loose (the ones that sandwich around the crankshaft), plus all the little lower case perimeter bolts and upper ones as well. Once the cases are ready to come apart, you'll probably hear a slight "PSS", that is air secreting between what was once good, sealed case 1/2's. The biggest pain are the small phillips-head screws that hold the tranny "guts", you'll know them - they are TIGHT. Get an impact hammer from Sears and pop those screws out. They sit in the cases (both top & lower 1/2's) directly behind the clutch basket.
I'd get your crank checked by Stan Gardner (508-653-0477), he is good and very honest. I sent him my crank & tranny for my rebuild, he called me back & said "They're fine, put them back in." I was prepared for a rebuild, but he said my stuff was fine - he's agood, honest guy.
I've seen guys "blueprint" stock 1075cc GS engines, install straightcuts and go quick, not break & have a blast. Ask Stan about it.
Even an 1168 with mild porting / stock valves / mild (.345 lift) cams will set you back a healthy amount. High-performance is not cheap.
Buying a used engine from a stranger, especially across the internet, is RISKY. No offense to the guy selling his 1500 for $4,000 - but there many crooked people out there. That's why I decided to build my own, myself and rest assured I KNOW what I have.
Best of luck either way, buddy.
StuckinIRAQ, thanks for all the feedback and tips. I'm having fun, learning as I go, with all help most appreciated.
I also have a 1500cc motor which cost a fortune, so I want to have another motor that I can use that is less costly if something lets go (I also don't care how fast it goes, realiability and the ability to take punishment are key).
Regards.
Originally Posted by StuckinIRAQ
Cam's engine is a deal.
You cant even smell a low 8 second button start motorfor 4G.
IfI had the money it would be undermy workbench right now!
Hi Jeff, thanks for the feedback.
Actually, I already have such a motor, I'm looking for something else that I can run at marginal tracks (eighth mile mostly) where wheelspin is a major problem, and speed is not the main concern.
Besides, I'd like to build one on my own just for the experience.
Regards.
I like to say I build my own motors, but truth be known I really just assemble them.
I leave all the head work, trans work and crank work to the pros.
They are very easy to work on though.
You should be able to take that good core and put together something like your talking about fairly inexpensively.
I know quite a few people that run basically stock engines in thier super gas bikes.
Maybe a touch of head cleanup and backcut the trans.Weld the crank,degree the stock cams and bolt on some race carbs.
Those guys have a ton of fun for not much money.We should all be so smart![img]smileys/smiley1.gif[/img]
How big can I build a GS1100 without boring out the cases
Thanks.
| « Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
| Bookmarks |
Bookmarks |
