|
|
Would like to have your opinions on what my choice of wrist pins should be. The motor will be a 1170, 10.5 compression drag motor that will never see anything more then race gas (expected hp 140+). I have 2 sets to choose from, standard wiseco pins or suncoast tool steel with a advertised .100 wall thickness. I like the fact that the tool steel pins are much lighter then the wiseco pins, I also have no idea what the wiseco pins are made out of. Also the wiseco pins are packaged in plastic wrapers with the words made in Taiwan.
... Tom,go with the tool steel pins. Make sure you have the correct retainers. Tru~arcs sharp corner pins and grooves, circlips bevel end pins and rounded grooves. Also on the tru~arcs sharp edge out. I don't know this manu. but APE has never had a broken one forty wall.
I plan on using teflon buttons so I hope what the end of the wrist pin looks like does not matter
... Tom, believe it or not some of those teflon deals are heavier than circlips, but they do make disassembly much easier.
and prevent "self dissasembly"
Some companies make the wrist pins that are thicker walled in the center and thinner on the ends to keep them light weight.
Tony
A.P.E. wrist pins rock.
make sure you measure the total lenght of the buttons and the wrist pin
and compare it to the bore, you do not want the button to scuff the
cylinder walls.
... Teflon, under allmost any circumstance (wristpin or skirt, tight or loose) will not scuff a cylinder wall, but when it holds any little pieces of metal and it does grip the flack, it then tears up the walls. The marks clean teflon puts on walls is not detectable even with a one tenthousandth dial bore gage.
APE tool steel wrist pins are the only way to go. Seen Wiseco pins
break,not a pretty sight. My guess the Made in Taiwan might have
something to do with it.
| « Previous Thread | Next Thread » |