[img]smileys/smiley5.gif[/img] Got my hands on a good old Kaw bracket bike, been sitting for awhile, but good parts. 1425, slider, 9" tire, Digital Delay, Lectrons, Dyna S, DRL-400, Shift counter, shift minder, etc., the usual. I sent the 400 & the Minder back to Scott @ Dyna to be checked out and they were bad. Replaced them. The bike starts fine, gets on the two step and comes off fine, but when a load is put on it,on the race track, it misses out, even in the water box. I checked the coils, they ohm out @ 3.2 (green ones). The battery is fine @ 12.6 volts. I've bypasses the delay box thinking it might be bad. I replaced the spark plug wires. I'm stumped, give me some ideas, I'll listen to anything right now. Thanx................Tony.
Main 12v power switch, tether, loose connections, could be a number of things. May need more specific symtoms for a better analysis.
corroded connections , wire too small a gauge maybe
I know you already know this but what plug wires are on the bike Will it do this with the 400 disconnected Where is the rev limiter grounded to Try running with just the clutch switch disconnected and then with the rev limiter disconnected.
Originally Posted by Teamcow
I see you say the battery has 12.6v but have you load tested the battery
Thanks guys for all the ideas. The plug wires are standard Dyna wires. I had the battery load tested tonight, it was good. Has anyone heard of Dyna coils slowly going bad I had one go bad, but it was all of a sudden. Keep the ideas coming, I'm to get this thing yet.........[img]smileys/smiley7.gif[/img]
Check all the grounds and switches, don't rule the battery out yet it could be shorting out when vibration from the bike running is present, also check the ignition plate and throw in a new set of plugs for good measure..
Every time I had a bike do that, it was always a bad switch or connection nearly broken inside shrink tube. Water in the float bowls will also do it. I have had ONE post of a coil go bad, too. If you have a meter or a continuity tester that makes a tone or lights a light, clip it onto any switch in question, and move the handle, hit it ,rattle it, and try to get the light to go out or the tone to interrupt...if you get it to happen anything short of actually getting the switch to the off position, it's junk. Most switches loosen up their contacts that are riveted. Vibration is a killer.
Hope this helps...Tim
I remember Billy Poe having that problem once at Thunder Valley, the bike ran fine but craped all the way down the track. Poe and Hendrick shook the battery while it was running in the pit and it started doing it.
Also if it has one of those old school red on off switches, they go bad and do that like crazy.
Did you find the problem With the DRL 400 I had to use a relay. The bike would run fine up to about 6000 rpm, then start missing. I thought the problem was in the shift minder at first because i could never see the shift light at 10,500rpm. Finally changed that relay and everything cleared up.
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