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Thread: static timing help

  1. #1
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    Hey guys, mechanics aren't my forte, and im having trouble getting my head around using a degree wheel to set timing, bike is running well but i have been informed i need timing set at 38 degrees , with the msd trigger plate in i have no marks to go by on my gsxr1100 based motor, am running the mc-4 ignition .


    has anyone got the time to give me a step by step explanation on using a degree wheel to set this mark


    or direct me to a useful site
    hold it flat!!

  2. #2
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    only did it once, it was a customers bike, and it was way tricky compared to dyna stuff


    there was a 'timing compensation feature'that confused me pretty good


    dont remember what it took to get itdead on


    wish i could help but it was years ago and i dont want tomess you up any more than you may already be


    good luck





    dead late - seven ninty eight

    don tanklage ama t/g world champion 1907

  3. #3
    Senior Member Red,'s Avatar
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    <TABLE borderColorDark=#c0c0c0 width="100%" borderColorLight=#808080 border=1>
    <T>
    <TR>
    <TD>
    <H2>Setting Ignition Timing for an
    Aftermarket Ignition Module</H2></TD></TR>
    <TR>
    <TD>Timing LED.


    Most performance ignition modules have a Timing LED. This can be used for static timing and as a diagnostic aid. The LED should light up when the ignition key is turned on. The timing LED will go off when the crankshaft is rotated past TDC. During cranking the LED will blink.


    TIMING PROCEDURE


    For most 1984 and later models, most aftermarket ignition system installation does not require resetting the ignition timing. For earlier models where a new trigger rotor or camshaft position sensor is installed, you must reset the timing.


    The TDC and advance timing marks are located on the fly-wheel and can be observed via an inspection hole (refer to the shop manual for details). Refer to Figure 1 for typical timing marks. Early Style includes most 1980 and earlier models. Late Style includes most 1981-95 models. If the shop manual is not available, remove spark plugs, turn engine until front piston is at TDC on compression stroke and identify TDC mark on the flywheel. Refer to Figure 0 and find the diagram with a matching TDC mark. Use the corresponding advance mark shown in the diagram.


    INITIAL STATIC TIMING PROCEDURE



    If the engine will not start or runs very rough, you can use the following static timing procedure. Remove spark plugs and turn engine until TDC mark appears in observation hole. Ground spark plugs with an alligator clip so you will not shock yourself.


    Turn on ignition. Loosen the standoffs holding camshaft position sensor and rotate it clockwise until timing LED goes out. The point at which LED goes off is TDC. Timing is now set approximately at TDC, which is correct for cranking conditions.


    Turn off ignition and reinstall spark plugs.


    ADVANCE TIMING PROCEDURE - USING
    STANDARD TIMING LIGHT


    This timing procedure requires that a VOES switch be connected to the ignition module. For racing applications without a VOES switch, you must ground the VOES input (purple/white wire) while setting the timing. Connect a timing light to the front cylinder. Set the ignition module advance slope switch to midrange. Run the engine at 2,400 to 2,500 RPM. Rotate camshaft position sensor until advance timing mark is centered in the observation hole. Tighten the standoffs and verify that timing has not shifted. Timing will now correspond to the curves in Figures 5 or 6.


    SETTING PRECISE ADVANCE TIMING FOR
    RACING
    USING DIAL BACK TIMING LIGHT



    Determine the advance you want at 2,500 RPM. Use a dial-back timing light. Set the amount of advance you want, say 35 degrees, on the dial-back timing light. Connect the dial-back timing light to the front cylinder. If the VOES is used, disconnect the VOES input (purple/white wire) while setting the timing with this procedure. Set the ignition module advance slope switch for maximum advance. Run the engine at 2,500 RPM. Rotate camshaft position sensor until TDC timing mark is centered in

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gixkat


    Hey guys, mechanics aren't my forte, and im having trouble getting my head around using a degree wheel to set timing, bike is running well but i have been informed i need timing set at 38 degrees , with the msd trigger plate in i have no marks to go by on my gsxr1100 based motor, am running the mc-4 ignition .


    the msd has a led light on it to tell you when it sees the signal from the crank trigger


    you have to add 4° to what you are wanting for static and set it to that number


    so in your case 42°


    do you know how to zero the wheel


    dead late - seven ninty eight

    don tanklage ama t/g world champion 1907

  5. #5
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    zeroing the wheel is where im getting lost [img]smileys/smiley5.gif[/img]
    hold it flat!!

  6. #6
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    what are you using


    positive stop or dial indicator
    dead late - seven ninty eight

    don tanklage ama t/g world champion 1907

  7. #7
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    positive stop, and thanks for the replies fellas.
    hold it flat!!

  8. #8
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    Remove all spark plugs


    Install degree wheel and pointer


    With the postive stop installed in #1 cylinder


    Do not turn the crank with the degree wheel, use a wrench


    GENTLY turn the engine forward until the crank stops


    Write down the number on the degree wheel


    GENTLY turn the engine backwards until the crank stops again.


    Write down the number of the degree wheel


    If the numbers do not match (one number will be before TDC and the other number will be ATDC) keep moving the degree wheel on the crank and repeat until you have the same number forwards and backwards.


    At this point you know where TDC is


    After you get the bike timed steal some red nail polish from your wife or GF and paint a mark your crank and case and then scribe a line through the nail polish. Now you should be able to use a timing light next time.





    Edited by: Dick Boxell
    Dick (GOT NITRO?) Boxell
    Welcome to the Dark Side....
    (Hell, I used to Race....)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gixkat


    zeroing the wheel is where im getting lost


    remove spark plugs and valve cover


    motor on tdc #1 firing


    mount the wheel tight


    make a pointer out of a pc of clothes hanger or filler rod or something flexable


    put on zero


    1) dial indicator:


    securely mount indicator base


    indicator on #1 piston


    zero ind (mental note if small dial is not on zero)


    pull motor thru dir of rotation with a wrench


    when coming back up on ex stroke stop at 050 btdc


    if valve springs were creating resistance keep the pressure applied to wrench while you -


    note number on wheel (eyeball to the 1/8 of a degree)


    pull motor over tdc and stop at 050 atdc


    note number on wheel (eyeball to the 1/8 of a degree)


    move pointer to make perfect


    examble - if first number is 32° and second is 28pointer needs to be moved2° dir of rotation


    move pointer and repeat until both numbers are the same


    dead late - seven ninty eight

    don tanklage ama t/g world champion 1907

  10. #10
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    Late again Don[img]smileys/smiley2.gif[/img]
    Dick (GOT NITRO?) Boxell
    Welcome to the Dark Side....
    (Hell, I used to Race....)

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