yes i dont know whats happened to yamaha prices they got silly as of late , I order my FJ inlet rubber from Z1 think they about $120 plus shipping to uk for full set ,quite a few of the lads have bored out the stock xjr inlet rubbers but its a time consuming job and very messy , I have seperate fule and nitrous injectors on bike if i had to do it again i would have spacer plates made up for between rubbers and head as ive already split one set of rubbers or just take out me vacume take offs and fit a fogger in there
when i run a 50 shot for clutch all i did was double up the stock spring this is a pop mod and stops a lot of slip and only cost about Â£15 to do , i have a barnet 6 spring plate in now which is oki most of time and they sent me detail for the stock spring it comes with and they have 2 more stages of stiffer spring for it so i can mix and match
as for cams if ive got my info right way round US FJ modles have 7.5 lift , UK fj and xjr both have lift of 8.0 , and Kent cams do a 8.28 street cam in uk for both bikes and there seam to be a lot of aftermarket variation as far as i could tell FJ and XJR cams supplied to uk are same , started to look into duration but it became a mind f**k but just on lift the only difference i could find was from US and UK spec , but if im wrong would be very happy to hear it
A M8 runs xjr with FJ cams , ported head dyna 2000 dyna coils FJ inlets zorst ect , i belive he run a bit more advance than me and he dyno out at 130bhp so he got 5bhp more do you think the cams swap from xjr to FJ was worth any of that gain ?
No XJR dont have a fule pump i fitted one from an FI car and a regulaer and guage and run a high psi system just for nitrous , the petcocks as you know have No off position and are vacume operated , there been quite a few case of them either filling bores with petrol over night or starving carbs , this was def not an area i wanted to deal with so just swaped it out for pingle item
Not sure about your fule pump and what it good for sorry
I have run my bike on a 50 shot just using the pingle twing tap and gravity to do work down to solonid but it dose take carefull laying out and setting up and keeping a full tank and it worked fine for me
I found one ticket and that was a 1.94 60 and run 10 .9 @132 , but i know a lot of it is down to me there not a lot of consitancy in my runs im always testing something , but now ive decied to almost leave bike alone hope in 2011 can get some real time in and collect data , im sure it has a sub 10 in it , just not sure of rider yet LOL
Edited by: Tezzuk
The FJ1100 cams are meant to be better than the FJ1200 cams if you can find them. The stroker is running RS40 flatslides with a pingel tap gravity fed. There's a guy running an FJ on 1188 Wisecos who is using it for circuit racing pushing 162bhp at the wheel, he's featured issue 4 of practical sportsbikes, he's won the series he races in this year against carbed R1s etc which is quite an interesting article.
I seen a few articals on FJs and make some very good power figuers when tuned up ,Iv yet to find exactly what the difference is from FJs and XJRs tho they almost same engin , never been able to nail down exactly what the difference is in cams as i said best i could nail down was lift and differences from USA and UK bikes
I was reliably informed that the FJ ecu runs a very aggresive ignition curve , some thing like 33 degree difference between 1000 and 3000 rpm and the XJR also ramps up at part throttle and back down at WOT but not as agressive which put me off the dyna 2000 as they only list it for FJ ,I guess a good test for me would be just to snap in an FJ ecu see what happens
I had a bunch of steel rotas made up for me 4 degree advance , 4 degree retard and 6 retard and just swap them as needed but would be nice to fit a mapable ignition and have the retard come in with nitrous
There was an interesting set of data on the XJR where they dyno it at different stages and bhp and upto about 130 bhp both tourge and BHP got higher after that more the BHP went up above 130 the lower the tourqe got and peak moved up rev a fair bit , i was very keen to keep the low down grunt of bike as that what makes it fun on road and worry some time chasing bhp will fek up bike low down at least with nitrous i just turn it off , the nitrous makes the power matching it to bike is hard part my controler is very basic and crude but hoping after some testing as bike is , i really need some data with out changing bike again then To fit a New NLR Nitrous controler or the Nos launcher
I'm sure you've already read this, but I found a little bit of info on the cams. They're the same through all years, apparently.
Megacycle lists (what I assume are) the US FJ12 cams as:
<div>Lots of options for building your FJ. I'd personally recommend
rebuilding what you have vice going with a new engine. The new one's
are the same design -- I only know of three significant differences -
the new block is a "siamesed" casting and has Nikasil plated bores, the
newer rods are stronger, and the tranny output shaft is longer (but was
not done for strength or reliability). The crank and rod bearings
looked brand new when I tore down myFJ1200 with over 64,000 miles
and115 passes on the dragstrip! Also, cases, cylinder blocks, cylinder
sleeves, heads, etc all benifit from seasoning in my opinion. </div>
In: .315" lift, 233 duration @ .040"
Ex: .313" lift, 232 duration @ .040"
And some other info that I found whilst digging between the two motors:
-XJR has stronger rods
-XJR has forged pistons
-XJR has plated liners
-XJR block is siamesed
I know in some markets (restricted for various reasons) the carb rubbers are smaller. I've heard that the FJ1100 rubbers are better, but haven't found clear-cut proof on that yet. The home-market FJ's were also limited to like 115mph by japanese law by a circuit in the dash.
Depends really on what you want, if you want the low rpm thrust then the XJR/FJ motors are definitely perfect for you, and nitrous to make up the difference is just the ticket. I'm building something that's only going to be ridden to the track and back, basically, so I'm not somuch concerned if it's wimpy under the shift recovery points
Yep that all sort of confirms what i read over the years the cams are all the same you even use the same part number for all the different modles fj1100/1200xjr1300 ext so ive no idea why its thought FJ ones are better but the confusion could be that the US modles are different to UK and a lot of the jap home market stuff is restricted
The problem is no one has ever just swaped cams , they always combine it with head work or biger bore new ignition ajustable cam sprokets ect ect and over time leads to a set of parts need for X amount of power
Thers an xjr 1200 over hear that runs turbo metonal , 3 speed box ect ect and runs between 7 to 8 sec 1/4 , did not run last year but main problem they had was exploding cranks but this thing was putting out masive amount of power , i was told 1318 rebore oki 1350 at a push def not the 1380 using my stock barrels , once the xjrs get past 20,000 miles they seam to run a lot better
Yep the XJRs do run plated liners forged piston ect just as you listed is why i think it a good engin to learn with , they make them now with EFI but alot of people that have upgraded to the new XJRs soon sold them and went back to carbed bikes , I think Dyno jet gave up Trying to make a powercomader for them just could not get it to work
Im told that the shims from Mk3 UK Mondeo are same and same for quite a few bikes , still waiting on a bit more info as soon as i get it ill let you know , told most patten part auto shops also stock them
Originally Posted by dynomutt
Got some RTV sealer for me rocker cover gasket going to stick it to cover this time, either theres something wrong with my cover or the Gen Yam gasket is crap , this is my 3rd one in a few years and they have all leaked in one place or another :-(
Also checking out Debben Race spares for xjr/Fj parts is always worth an email or call they used to do a fair bit for them and usally have some good bits at clearance prices, maybe not for stroker but could be usfull for other customers
was hopeing to get bike out today and play with shifter ajustment some more but ice put paid to that :-( , this has buy far caused me the most agro , partly due to fact never used an electric over air kit before , tried a few set ups and makes some were oki till i turn on nitrous and then found myself having to move solonids around or change bottle psi ect ect , FFS there was one box made in uk supposed to be the dogs bollox that had a mind of it own , it used to change gear all buy its self or when ya turned it on or off ect spent 6 month trying to work out why but last straw was when it changed gear with me cranked right over on a fast round about :-( and only buy grace of god i got away with that , anyway over time kind of worked out that buy moving part around this change the point where igniton killed to shift ram starting to move and complet shift , so decied to build a box with electronic ajustment to mimic moving of parts around bike to get same effect and could not understand why three was not this ajustment on most kill boxes anyway it worked a treat so far got the kill down to 65milli seconds using nitrous and for 1st time of any box a clean shift from 1st to 2nd which with tractor gearbox on xjr anit to bad
the electronics were very simple and parts were about $40 in total all we did was have an ajustable kill time for ignition but also an ajustable timeed operation of the shift sol , 1 to save gas and 2 so ram dont keep pressuer on gearbox and did not than matter how long i pusj button for, and then had another set of ajusters inside box that allowed me to ajust exactly when kill was fired and when sol was fired all from same trigger and box ,This i belive was the key the simple fact i could now fire shifter sol before after or at same time as kill , we did get a bit carried away with box and also got it to kill nitrous on up shifts and added in a frequncey switch so it all fired at set rpm and then reset for next gear so much easier to ajust a POT than move around hardware and a bit suppriesed one of the big makers not got this on there shifter kits
Now just need to decied if shifting at max tourqe is best or just above and dropping back to max or rev crap out of it and change just before red line , ive been told so many different things , im told is best to make nitrous always pull and work to max tourqe and others say take bike to make bhp then shift
Any thoughts on shift points ?
Theres some old threads i cant reply to on FJ
So have a question , on the xjr theres baffle plates and other stuff on back of clutch cover , Now there is a Trend in uk with the Bling masters to take all this off and fit a window in clutch cover , end result oil pisses out of crank breather and they usally add the oil filler breather as well which also pisses oil , now as nearly all of them have had some engin mods done they put this down to more pressuer , yet i have stock engin run bike real hard and Nitrous and dont loose any oil ?
was thinking about a lock up with quick acess cover and just wondered if anyone thats fitted this has then had problems with oil comeing out of vents
My M8 says i should just buy a busa LOL FFS some people just dont get it do they
If you are getting a lot of crankcase pressure then something is not right, the stroker doesn't suffer with oil blowing out of the breathers, although they are routed to the catch tank in the spondonn arm, but it doesn't get filled with oil. It sounds like a bit of blowby causing it. I did suffer with my 650 Kawasaki blowing oil from the breather, but that was also down to the filter on the end being in the airflow and suction being created when riding, like wind passing over a chimney, if your breather hoses are in the breeze then move them inboard and into a catch tank and see if that cures it or reduces it.