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Thread: XJR1300

  1. #31
    Thanks for info , i as of yet dont suffer from this problem and crankcase pressuer seam fine so far as well , but then i have my stock cover still and dont have the oil filler breather just a filter top on me crankcase outlet this is low and behind engin

    still undecided what way to go with clutch or if to try the simple things 1st or just bite bullet and fit a lock up so far from information ive seen theres a few thing could try

    Extra Plate kit .
    Have the pressed steels surface ground perfect and add another steel ground down to make up stack.
    Remove the spring washer and lower small plate and have barnet plate milled to fit full size top plate and run 8 full size plate
    Fit 3 or 6 stronger springs to Barnet
    or fit lock up

    I get a bit of slip but its not too bad and steels do turn blue but only in small areas of each steel , ive killed a set of EBC plates and a set of barnets back on Yamaha ones now and seam to be holding up better but bloody expensive

    Only ever run on semi synt oil but its changed quite alot

    Dose the stroker still run its stock basket ?


  2. #32
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    48
    the electronics were very simple and parts were about $40 in total
    all we did was have an ajustable kill time for ignition but also an
    ajustable timeed operation of the shift sol , 1 to save gas and 2 so
    ram dont keep pressuer on gearbox and did not than matter how long i
    pusj button for, and then had another set of ajusters inside box that
    allowed me to ajust exactly when kill was fired and when sol was fired
    all from same trigger and box ,This i belive was the key the simple fact
    i could now fire shifter sol before after or at same time as kill , we
    did get a bit carried away with box and also got it to kill nitrous on
    up shifts and added in a frequncey switch so it all fired at set rpm and
    then reset for next gear so much easier to ajust a POT than move around
    hardware and a bit suppriesed one of the big makers not got this on
    there shifter kits

    Now just need to decied if shifting at max
    tourqe is best or just above and dropping back to max or rev crap out of
    it and change just before red line , ive been told so many different
    things , im told is best to make nitrous always pull and work to max
    tourqe and others say take bike to make bhp then shift
    I'd love a copy of the schematic that you used for the kill box! Been wanting to use one for a quickshifter on the ZX9, as part of an airshifter for the FJ, and a friend wants a pair for himself also, $40 seems like it's in the right ballpark!

    As far as where you want it to shift, it's an easy calculation but you'd need a dyno sheet that shows your torque curve. Can do it with HP but you'll have to figure out the torques backwards then. In short, you want to make maximum thrust at the ground, and never go up in thrust on a shift. With the stock torque curve on the FJ trans, the answer is you hold first to an indicated 10k, then shift into third and into fourth at 9500, hold 4th to 10k before the shift.

    Will see what I can mock up for you, if I can find a good clean dyno sheet on the XJR mill.


  3. #33
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    48

    Okay, sat and did the math quick. With an XJR putting 104hp to the ground at 8k, peak torque at 6500 (79ft-lbs), you'd want your shiftpoints to be:

    1-2 = 9470
    2-3 = 9030
    3-4 = 8820
    4-5 = 8330

    With an honest 50 shot (rwhp) hitting from 6k on up:

    1-2 = 9470
    2-3 = 8760
    3-4 = 8820
    4-5 = 8070

    At 6500 revs, a 50 shot puts your rwtq up to around 120ft-lbs, incidentally.

    I can't model it with a progressive controller nor with different amounts in different gears, I'm afraid, short of cheating a bit and setting the traction limit (also doubles as a wheelie limit), and for that I'd have to have a fair bit of experience on your machine. Been working on fixing my math to sort that stuff out, but it's tricky stuff.

    That being said, if you're trying for ET, my calc is showing that you'd be going fast enough in each gear that you should probably carry them to redline. You'll put down less average power overall, but because you'll be moving a bit faster during the wasted time shifting, you'll cover the distance more quickly. So there ya go.

    My experience on the FJ said if you're going through the traps in fourth gear, you probably want to be turning around 8500-9k at the stripe. Having the motor pulling hard instead of tailing off in power seems to be helpful.

    Carry on, I'm trying to get a 9 from a SWB FJ, so I understand your pain




    Edited by: FJman

  4. #34
    cool thanks for working that out , this could be where ive been going wrong a lot of time ive been shifting at 7500 or there abouts only had a few test runs on new shifter so far so most of my runs were shifting on button and trying to watch shift light looks like i need to move shift points , Launch thats still hard and feeding in clutch but i think a lot more time at track in 2011 should help and getting used to differnt tracks if theres a way not to launch i think ive done most of them [img]smileys/smiley3.gif[/img] make for some good photos crap 60s tho usally fek up at least 1 thing in a run but im sure there more in this bike as it is

    Dont have any drawing for internals of shift box Me and M8 sort of came up with it as we went along tested on bike and swaped out parts as needed ill try and see if he has list of parts and how they linked , Hes building up ecus at momnet and TPS and all kinds of electronics for his car

    But to give you an idea i had one kill box i bought and inside was POT to set time a single capacitor and a mini relay and that was it total cost of parts about $3 plus box and i can telly you cost me hell of alot more than that but it worked

    This is an interesting read

    http://forums.parallax.com/showthrea...ight=Drag+bike






  5. #35
    One of the shifter i had that worked well on bike from 2nd gear up (did not like 1-2) was a very simple ignition kill box and i wired the earth trigger to an old break light switch the type with a spring and attached the spring to me gear leaver and ajusted it so it just opperated kill at point just before i could feel resitance on leaver , oki still using foot but WOT shifts few pops out of zorst but it never ever missed a shift once set biggest advantage was bike felt so much more stable and settled thro shift , was so simple , only reason i went air was told i need to get power in lower down this may have been correct just forgot to mention i would also need to reduce total power or replace controler to limit 1st gear Nitrous ect ect but its a lot of fun learning




  6. #36
    Bit of usefull info is you use a barnet plate for clutch i belive they same part number in FJ as XJR

    <div>The springs that typically come with the spring conversionare 75 lbs at 1"
    compressed. We have an optional heavier duty set, #501-82-06023, and they are 82
    lbs. at 1". </div>
    <div></div>
    <div>If you feel that you need something even stiffer, our stiffest spring set
    is #501-99-06091 and these springs are rated at 99 lbs at 1". You can also
    alternate threeandthree from anytwo spring sets. </div>


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