33mm mikuni adjustment - Page 2

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  1. #11  
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    When I check cam timing and put arrow towards gasket surcae do you count the pin that the arrow point to as 1 or as zero and the pin above the arrow is 1?
    Thanks
    Last edited by sdavis0823; 03-28-2012 at 03:36 AM.
    Steven Davis
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  2. #12  
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    Stating the obvious. Just how in the hell did you assemble the motor if you do not know how to put the cams in time?

    Basic info is there are slots in the camshaft ends that line up with the head/cover parting line. If Z-1 there are three camshaft bolts that look lile an arrow. The pointed end lines up with head parting line.

    In reality you should check camshaft timing by taking degree readings,but at minimum on disassembly you put the crank at #1 TDC(cam lobes aim away from each other/plug) and put some Dykem on the sprockets at the parting line. On some hot rod cams the slots in the ends or the bolts deal are not dead true to parting line,so the only way to put it back together is the Dykem method or re degree the cams.

    If it is out of time and depending on how bad you did it could bend all the valves. Maybe you are lucky and are out of time such that the valves clear each other and the piston so no damage done.
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  3. #13  
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    Ignore that counting the pins deal. This is to set the slack such that they come out correct when you bolt the idler back in. When you get done the cams will line up the slots or the bolts deal provided they were ground that way. Some hot rod cams are not dead true and needed to be degreed when assembled. If someone already did that then you put Dykem on the sprockets to get them back like they were.
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  4. #14  
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    I didn't put it togetherif there were bent valves they prob wouldn't seat and leakdow
    It would be way more than 10 percent so not worried about bent valves
    And the motor makes no noise. It could be valve springs too cam is small but springs have over 600 passes on themand it don't want to rev.. keep in mind this is an kz1197 and I only 2 step it to 6500 and shift at 8500 so I don't lean on this motor hard at all, but at 8500 to 9000 its done pulling and shouldn't be
    It has web 395 cams 13:1, kz900 head with moderate porting
    Steven Davis
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  5. #15  
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    Going to put new ngk plugs, dyna wires and new fbg battery in it first and run it and see if any of that helps
    Steven Davis
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  6. #16  
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    As I said a few times now do what you want but being that slow the motor is broken,it is not a plug or jetting away from correct when it was running before. Simply a .1 sec off is a lot and compression increase should be faster not slower in any case.

    You pull the lid and check the cam timing at TDC. It is really easy either the dots line up or not.

    The 28 pins deal sets the slack but after the cams are bolted down the dots on intake and exhaust line up with the parting line. Odds are the intake cam is incorrect,ie you got 29 pins vs 28 pins.

    The reason the motor does not run is the piston ends up quite far down before the intake opens thus does not breathe.
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  7. #17  
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    Hey sonicrete I sent you a pm.. I do appreciate any help I can get

    Thanks
    Steven Davis
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  8. #18  
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    Did not get the PM. I wonder if it has anything to do with the new web site.
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  9. #19  
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    I've sent some PM's,,,didn't work either.
    2011 & 2012 NHRA D6 champion,,,,who says turbo's aren't consistent!
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  10. #20  
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    I agree there is more to the slow down, something is not together correctly. I say cam timing as well. And put some 147.5 jets in it. You also need a good ignition for this. I had an engine much the same many years ago, those carbs too.
    Last edited by ALO; 03-29-2012 at 01:52 AM.
    2011 & 2012 NHRA D6 champion,,,,who says turbo's aren't consistent!
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