Hello everyone, I'm a new one on the forum. I am French, and I am registered in a championship called the Monster--race. We have sprints, endurance on road racing tracks and dragster (we share the track with the French dragster championship). Engine preparation is free, but we must keep the same chassis for each race. Authorized machines are the multi-cylinder 750 cc and superior, turbo accepted, no NO2. The bike are powered by fuel injection or carburetor, without fairings, so we see 80’s bikes or so the latest releases.
This is a championship or it must be fast and tough. There is an overall ranking, an injection ranking and a carburetor ranking.
I come here to ask you some tips on tune up my bike. This is a 1100 gsxr 1989. I’ve no worries about chassis, front box welded, front and rear end from a Gixxer K6 1000.
My questions relate to the engine, I have a block of 1100 '89 bored in 81mm, 1216cc (high compression Wiseco piston kit). An exhaust header Vance SS, a ramp of yoshimura carburetor TMR-MJN with BMC cones, stock cams, a dyna2000 ignition, dynatek mini coils, NGK iridium spark plugs. I work on a ballistic battery so I remove the alternator. And I kept the engine starter . After breaking valves of the first cylinder, the head is HS. I would like to rebuild an complete engine with drag parts to have maximum hp! I've already ordered a few pieces, like a kit of valves Kibblewhite, diamond white models (stock size), valve guides, valve springs and titanium retainer from APE, a Wiseco piston and I found an used 1100 89’ head. For the head tuning I will do a valve and port job, install parts that I bought ...
My questions are:
1: should i put in bronze valve seats instead of steel ones with my new valves?
2: for rods, I saw by looking on the internet that there had many things possible. Which model should I choose, those of 1052 in 117.37 mm, those of 1127 in 117mm, hayabusa rods in 119mm, 1100 watercooled rods in 117mm, Carillo rods in H profile ?
I want to stay in stock stroke. if I put longer rods, I should raise the cylinder, but how?
What is the best piston/Valve clearance ?
I’m wondering something. What is the deal to put longer rods ?
3: which crankshaft? that of 1052, that of 1127, that of a Bandit 1200 (with the HY-VO chain).
Should I lightweight and race balanced it ? ( I’ve more road racing races than dragster races.)
4: the gearbox is original one of the 89’ 1127 in 5 speed, are there any models of boxes witch are most interesting ? (GSXF, katana, other gsxr) or in 6 speed models ?
5: for the clutch I currently have a bandit model with barnett spring. Is there something better?
6 : What is the advantage of using a manual cam chain tensioner ? in my league there is 3 hour endurance races, if I use this tensioner, I’ll need to tune it on a pit stop
7 : What are the best camshaft for road racing, which is the best cam timing with adjustable sprockets for my engine?
That’s all questions for the moment! Thanks a lot for all answers !!
This year on the first road race
last year at "the pecheraux" drag strip
Last edited by Mister Gex; 06-19-2012 at 07:26 AM.
Best Place for the information that you seek. http://forum.oldskoolsuzuki.info/cgi-bin/Yabb/YaBB.pl
ok i will make the same post on this forum.
If anyone have answers for my question...
I can't register on oldschoolsuzuki !
Go onto the oldskoolsuzuki facebook page, and contact one of the admins. registration has been disabled temporarily as the site was innudated with spam from all over the world trying to sell all manner of garbage.
There's a lot of guys on there into the oilboilers, and you'll find a wealth of info to help you out. Busa rods require a spacerplate under the cylinder block to raise the cylinders. Maual camchain tensioner should not need any adjustment during a 3 hour endurance race, although a brand new camchain may bed in a little initially. Get rid of the filters on the TMR-MJN and run the Yoshimura dual length stacks, the filters are quite restrictive, and the TMR flow a lot of air through them, I have a set of TMR35 with 152 mainjets and 50mm long stacks on my 650 and a set of TMR40 with 25mm stacks on my 1000 motor awaiting set up.
GSXR750J/K 88/89 cams will work well and like to rev.
Thanks for those tips...
So Hayabuza rods ( 119mm instead of 117 ) are 2mm longer. I need a spaceplate of 2MM ???? This spaceplate ( i've seen some on drag parts websites ) shoult be between 2 cylinder base seals or i can put only sealant paste ?
With those rods, i should put the dyna 2000 ignition with less or more advance ( i have 40deg at the moment )
I already have 750 89 cams ( the 27A R1 ref ) but i whant more power !
I would recommend tjhe 1052 crank. The 1127 will eventually crack ( if you are using one, mag it first ). For some reason 1he 1052 does not have the failure rate of the 1127.
Bronze seats are not necessary unless you were running Ti valves, or valves larger that the stock seats can handle.
So, if I mag my 1127 crank i will use it
Hayabusa rods, 81mm wiseco hi-comp, kibblewhite valves, bronse guides, ape valve springs, hardwelded rockers
.370 webcams will be the best for my application ?
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