I will openly admit my reason for attending this seminar was solely based on someone telling me there would be free stuff handed out. After all, I use the other “synthetic oil” and did not see a reason to change.
The meeting was held in one of the rooms in the tower and a small group of racers showed up, one of them being Rickey Gadsen who uses Motul in not only his race bikes, but also the bikes he uses at his drag racing school.
Standard vs. Synthetic (click on this link for the most in depth description of synthetic oil you ever wanted.)
Ken started the meeting by explaining the differences between standard oil and synthetic oil. This was an eye opener, just because it says synthetic on the bottle does not mean it is synthetic. There are different levels of what is called synthetic oil with some not being truly synthetic as they are just standard oil with synthetic additives. Also he explained the importance of the new JASO / MA rating which Japan came up with in order to certify oils for use in sport bike applications.
The main thing motorcycle synthetic oils accomplish is protection through resistance to heat before breaking down and the ability to withstand the punishment a motorcycle engine puts oil through, namely, the rods, crank and cam, the clutch fibers as well as the plates and the transmission. Automotive engines do not have to deal with clutch fibers and plates or the shear forces a transmission exhibits on oil.
Rickey Gadsen had the most telling testimonial, not because of who he is, but because of his practical experience with using Motul in his Racing School bikes. These bikes get beat on constantly. They make continuous round robin passes with very little time to cool. Rickey has had no engine failures in these bikes while running Motul 300V.
Pat Jones says, “I am not sure what it does for my engine, but it sure did improve my sex life and it smells good.” On a more serious note Pat did mention the last time they had their engine torn down the Suzuki GS crank looked like it had very little, if any wear and that was after a longer than normal span to tear the engine down and freshen it up.
There are 3 chain lubes Motul offers, Off Road, Road and Racing. I personally have been using the Road chain lube for 3 years. It is the best chain lube I have found for a few reasons, the main one being it sticks to the chain. Having a rear chrome rim I have had the problem with other chain lubes slinging all over the rim, since I have been using Motul chain lube that has not been an issue.
Rickey Gadsen has used the Race version of the chain lube and has seen up to 5 horsepower gains on the dyno when using it. Although he did tell me it does not stick as well as the Road Chain lube if you also drive your race bike on the street.
Brake fluids are “Hygroscopic” fluids. Ken informed us most people have not changed their Brake fluid in over 3 years. (When was the last time you changed yours?) Since the very nature of brake fluid is to draw in water, there is an inherent potential issue with it. After being in the bike a couple of years your brake capacity can drop as much as 30%. Worse yet, Brake Fluid you buy off the shelf can also have an issue with it depending how long it has been on the shelf. These bottles are sealed with air in them and air has moisture. Motul’s brake fluids are all sealed in a vacuum, giving them unlimited shelf life.
Ken recommends the Motul 5.1 and the 6.0 brake fluid for Sport Bikes. They have a 5.0 for Harley Davidson motorcycles which carry silicone in them; do not use 5.0 on your sport bike or you will have problems due to the silicone.
This is a product to help keep your bike cool. It is legal for drag racing and road racing, unlike some other blue and green colored ones. Also, it is not caustic to your cooling system like some other orange or pink ones. The other selling point is the mixture is 20:1. I almost forgot, PETA probably likes it because they added a bitterness agent to it to prevent animals and possibly some people from drinking it.
Once again Rickey Gadsen had a testimonial to this product as it is also used in his Racing school bikes. Rickey said he has never experienced a situation where the bikes have over heated. With the old cooling agent he used, the bikes required a brief cool down period.
I also have a personal testimony. I used a blue colored coolant and changed to MoCool. At first I was skeptical as this blue one worked very well. My Hayabusa is a Turbo and I removed the oil cooler from the bike, as a result the bike ran on the hot side with factory coolant if I had to make round robin passes in 90 degree heat. Changing to the blue coolant I was a little above the normal running range, a marked improvement over the factory coolant.
With the MoCool, I recently ran a test and tune session at Atlanta Dragway, I made three back to back passes in 90 degree heat, the needle never went above the “normal” mark. I let the bike sit for 30 minutes and made 2 more passes with the same result, six passes or so later with very little cool down time in between, the needle continued to stay in the normal operating temperature range. I am sold.
As Eeman Heisler said, “How can you be MoCool than that?”
What to do?
The information was impressive, too many times I hear wild claims, much like Pat’s, without any proof as to what lubricants truly work the best. Much like tires they all have their strong points based on the application.
The extremes these bikes are put through warrants use of the best possible lubrications available. Synthetic oil is the only oil that can provide the protection necessary for the temperature range these bikes achieve.
I am sold on the MoCool, it works.
As for the brake fluid, based on what Ken said, mine needs changing. Might as well try some Motul…
See ya on the track!