The Maxton Monster

Print Friendly, PDF & Email

index_head

No….not another motorcycle rebuild project, say it isn’t so. Turbo this and turbo that, that’s all I ever hear about anymore. If I have to read about one more turbo bike project, I think I’m going to scream! Not that I’m against turbo bikes, on the contrary, I wish I could afford a nice new Velocity Racing Turbo with the double ball bearing race setup. But alas, my fund$ are low and my fellow writer and Dragbike.com project bike builder Don Smith is busy and I am forced to do the other horsepower alternative.

Nitrous Baby!

If you have been keeping up with all the project bikes here at Dragbike.com, you would have undoubtedly read the Hayabusa Trilogy article. Last year, our Dragbike.com builders built for you, our loyal readers, many of the new Suzuki GSX1300 R’s & 1000 R’s and showed you how to turn your own personal bike into a high performance work of art.

Don Smith brought you the “Big Poppa Pimp” and the 200HP GSX1000R while we here at Maximum Performance Cycles in Toledo, OH continue the saga of the Hayabusa Trilogy. As you know, I have personally accepted the challenge of covering for Dragbike.com, the Maxton E.C.T.A. Speed Trials that are held at the Maxton/Laurinburg Airport in Maxton, NC. We last entered the E.C.T.A. in September of this last year and attempted to run over 200mph on motor only on the 1 mile track (abandoned runway). We were able to muster up a 196mph run with an 8-15mph headwind and were tickled to have done so. However, that just wasn’t enough for us here at Maximum Performance Cycles, so we decided to try again, except for one small factor. We’re going for broke this time and we want to break some records so it was back to the drawing board for another motor rebuild.





maxton_rtside

Last year at Maximum Performance Cycles, Mike Caputo built an extremely nice 200HP 1397cc motor for us to ride and it was truly a phenomenal ride. Nevertheless, this year we wanted more so Mike has built us another motor and this time, it’s KILLER. Mike wanted to maintain the same cc’s as the last motor, but also wanted to incorporate Nitrous Oxide into the equation. Therefore, we took apart the 1397cc high compression motor and started over. Since we wanted to pour the juice to it this year, the first steps that Mike had to take was to bulletproof the motor in the bottom end to accommodate the higher HP. So the cases came apart and everything was gutted from the motor like a fish ready for the frying pan. Out came the transmission and was immediately shipped off to Pro Stock rider/builder Paul Gast of Fast by Gast in Grand Island, New York.

maxton_lftfntqtr

As you can see, Ed Bogner at Fast by Gast is expertly back cutting each of the transmission gears on a mill so that we have a more positive engagement of the transmission while shifting under the nitrous power. Without this modification, the transmission was sure to fail in short order and that was not what we wanted. This process is called getting your tranny “race back cut.” There are few places in the U.S. you can take your motorcycle transmission to and have this procedure done, but Ed Bogner at Fast by Gast is one of the best.

Out came the crankshaft and the stock connecting rods were removed. Mike installed heavy-duty Carrillo rods on the crankshaft because he wanted the strongest rods available for the nitrous oxide injection and extremely high pressures that were to be generated.

maxton_fbgmill

We decided not to stroke the crank or modify it in anyway this time around. This is due to it being a pretty damn good crankshaft right out of the Suzuki design labs. We even decided to keep the crankshaft balancer in place because of our experiences with vibration at certain rpm’s without it while riding on the street. We could have sent the crankshaft out to have it balanced and done away with the balancer, but it really wasn’t necessary for what we needed for this type of motor rebuild.

maxton_tranny

Mike then installed the new custom Maximum Performance Pro Mod Nitrous pistons on the rod journals using Pro Mod style wrist pins. The pistons were custom cut to Mike’s rigid specifications to accommodate high compression ratios and still allow the Nitrous to flow. Jon Noonan of JE Pistons (also the fastest man on a Hayabusa) personally saw to the piston design changes for Mike. We sunk the pistons .015″ in the hole and after cc’ing the head, calculated the compression to be 12.85:1. If you’re unfamiliar with cc’ing a head, then let me try to explain this fun procedure. You set the motor up on a stand or on the bench so that the cylinders are straight up and down. Using a laboratory glass tube marked off in cc increments, (we use a 150cc tube) we fill it up with transmission fluid. In case you’re wondering, transmission fluid does not seep between the ring gaps very quickly so it is a good fluid to use. Then we remove the #1 sparkplug and bring the #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center. Mike then starts draining the cc tube of its fluid into the combustion chamber until it reaches the bottom of the sparkplug hole. We measure how much transmission fluid went into the chamber by looking at how much drained from the tube. Since we know the total cc’s of the combustion chamber, it’s a simple division equation to come up with the compression ratio. That’s a very simple and basic explanation and figuring total cc’s of the motor has its own equations to deal with. Getting the transmission fluid out of the motor is another trick of Mikes, but highly secret. We also used the new Cometic HP head gasket for the 84mm 1397cc custom pistons so that the high pressures generated in the combustion chamber stay there. No need to have any head gasket leakage now is there.

maxton_carillo1n2

The mighty Hayabusa head was also sent to Paul Gast at Fast by Gast for a stage III port job and installation of brand new gigantic 1mm oversized stainless intake and exhaust valves with titanium retainers. Mike wanted to make sure that we had a head that would flow the necessary supercharged air without any restrictions. First stop was the Serdi machine for new valve seats and port openings to be cut and then it was off to the porting bench. Besim Ogric of Fast by Gast is very meticulous when it comes to his Valve jobs. He makes sure that every valve seat opening is at the precise depth and that each valve is hand fitted for a perfect seal. It just doesn’t get any better than that folks. Besim, you are the valve wizard.

maxton_mikebench

After the new valve guides and seals were installed and the valves seated, it was off to the flow bench to make sure that the head was flowing the numbers Mike had asked for. Kevin Gilham of Fast by Gast performed the flow bench measurements personally. If you want to know the exact flow figures, I have been asked to have you call Kevin yourself. It cost $$$ to go fast, and having a head flow massive amounts of supercharged air has its secrets.

maxton_fbgserdi

Once the head was complete, it was time to install the NOS Nitrous nozzles directly into the intake ports and position them with the utmost accuracy. We had to make sure that each nozzle is directed and positioned to a specific spot in the intakes to maximize the combined atomized spray of Fuel and Nitrous Oxide.

maxton_fbgflowbench

As you can see from each of the nozzles in the picture that no two nozzles are pointed exactly the same. Just another Mike Caputo secret for maximizing HP from Nitrous Oxide systems. The Suzuki Hayabusa has a few installation obstacles to contend with so don’t try this at home without some supervision by a competent mechanic. Drilling, tapping and installation of the nozzles is not an easy trick and should only be performed by a steady hand and the keen eye of an experienced Nitrous installation technician. It can be done while the motor is still in the frame (more difficult) or while the head is on the bench (much easier).

maxton_headnozzle

Mike chose to continue using the .378 lift Web Cams from Steve and Laurie at Web Cams in Riverside, California. They provide plenty of duration and lift for the 1mm oversized valves and when degreed properly will give you plenty of HP. Of course it goes without saying that we always use the APE adjustable Cam sprockets to get the most from our cams and we would never assemble a performance nitrous motor without the use of APE’s heavy-duty crank studs and head bolts.

maxton_crankstuds

There are a few more goodies that Mike installed (as my wallet drained) that were crucial to helping this motor become bullet proof and highly efficient. First was a starter hub sleeve from Schnitz Racing. Most of you already know that Suzuki had a few starter mishaps from high compression motors that had weak batteries to start them. If the starter kicked back from the compression, it was sure to break the starter gear axle hub from the cases. Very messy and very expensive to replace the cases. Second was a Fast by Gast Gel cell high output battery that fits perfectly when using a Tiger Tail inner fender kit from Schnitz Racing and Fast by Gast. The Tiger Tail was designed specifically with the FBG high output gel battery in mind. No grinding necessary of the sub frame and all the stock electronics fit perfectly. Another addition to this Maxton Monster motor was a Brock modified clutch assembly along with the new Brock Davidson Enterprises BDE clutch cushion kit. Don’t leave home without it.

Now everyone should know by now that there is no one on the planet (in this writers/rider opinion) who can perform a better polish job than none other than Phil Tinsley of X-treme Cycles in Oregon, Ohio. Phil transformed the stock Hayabusa frame into a work of art for our Hayabusa Trilogy project and now gives the frame a winter touch up. X-treme Cycles in Oregon, OH has been polishing and chroming bikes for over a decade now and has mastered the art of removing those nasty swirls you get when polishing. His secret you ask, well you had better just ask Phil to do yours for you because he isn’t talking. I can tell you that a rag has NEVER touched the aluminum of this masterpiece. I will also tell you that after he is done polishing, we go over it with brake cleaner and cotton balls to remove all the residual polishing rouge from all the pores and crevices. Then its up to me to give the frame about 5 coats of straight Carnauba Wax using only cotton balls to apply it and cotton balls to remove it. The secret here is to seal the aluminum from oxidation, which maintains a just polished look all the time. If you leave your newly polished frame without protection from the air and elements for very long, it just doesn’t look as shiny as when first done.

maxton_xtremepolish

Phil’s polish jobs are often mistaken for being chromed and some people actually argue with me that it’s not polished. Phil can also chrome plate entire frames for you but I prefer the look of the polished aluminum surface. It’s just a more sophisticated look to me and I can always give it a touch up each winter if needed. For polishing and chrome work there are literally hundreds of people out there and some of them probably live close to you. For a master polisher, there is only one person in my book, Phil Tinsley at X-treme Cycles.

maxton_n2omount

Once the motor was assembled, cams degreed, and installed into the frame, it was time to start wiring the new electrical devices, plumbing the NOS nitrous system, hooking up the fuel system and regulator, mounting the Nitrous bottle bracket and many other items still to come.

maxton_tigertail

Before any electronics can be installed, a new Tiger Tail inner fender eliminator from Tiger Racing and available from either Schnitz Racing or Fast by Gast had to be fitted into place.

maxton_TT13subframe

We continue to use the Brock Hindle Street Smart System™ because basically, we just couldn’t find a pipe and header system that beats the Brock Hindle. Now that I have started everyone saying IÕm full of it, remember that after mucho mucho extensive Dyno time with different pipes and combinations of map programs and fuel, I can honestly tell you that there is not another pipe on the market today that I feel can beat the Brock Hindle Street Smart System™. Well, except maybe for the new Brock 3rd generation pipe and that’s a completely new article. But for now I’m sticking like glue to my Brock Hindle Street Smart System™ and that’s that!maxton_brockpipe

maxton_efir13sm

There’s no getting around the fact that if you put enough Nitrous into your motor, you’re going to have to pull some ignition timing out of it. If you don’t, you run the chance of detonation and exploding your motor all over the track or street and this is not a pretty picture, take my personal experience and word for it. I chose to use the Schnitz Racing EFIR13 (electronic fuel injection retard) unit to retard the timing about 6-10 degrees or so with the nitrous/fuel jet combination Mike chose to use. The EFIR13 is easy to install and has only 3 wires to hook up, power, ground and the activation wire. The pickup sensor from the mighty Busa plugs directly into the EFIR, which plugs back into the main electrical harness. Very simple to adjust with just a few dip switches and it even has a delay circuit built in to it. Way cool if you ask me.

maxton_dnoc

Now that I have the Nitrous and Fuel solenoids plumbed, wired and ready to go, I needed something else to give me the maximum benefit of the power I was about to unleash. I needed the ability to control the flow, rate, delay time and amount of Nitrous delivered to my motor…..I needed a Nitrous Controller.

maxton_electronics

Last year here at Dragbike.com we did an article on Nitrous controllers and I just happened to have a few sitting around on the shelves. After looking at my requirements and type of use (Land Speed Trials) I chose the Fast by Gast DNOC-1 from Zukinut. There are many other Nitrous Controllers on the market and they all seem to have everything I needed except for 1 feature and that was the ability to choose the final output of the Fuel Solenoid. Now I know you are asking why that is important and that would be a valid question, so here is my answer. Many would say that changing the nozzle jets would be the only way to increase or decrease the amount of Nitrous and fuel to your motor, but with the Zukinut DNOC-1 that is not the case. Since I am able to change the final output of the Fuel solenoid, I can use larger jets than I need and adjust the controller for a lower final output of the fuel and Nitrous solenoids in tandem. In this way, I can actually keep 1 set of jets installed in the nozzles and increase or decrease both the Fuel and Nitrous outputs by way of the DNOC-1 controller. Let’s say I wanted to increase my Nitrous and Fuel jets to give me an additional 10HP, I would just adjust my final output of both the Fuel and Nitrous up higher by 10% of so. This way of adjusting your power levels for more HP can be risky if you don’t have a complete understanding of your jetting values and how they react to one another. I could easily burn up my motor by not having the right values programmed in the controller for both the Nitrous and Fuel solenoids. All the other Nitrous controllers do not allow you to adjust the Final Fuel output separately from the nitrous. The fuel is adjusted simultaneously with the Nitrous output to keep a balance of both Fuel and Nitrous in your motor. The controller was designed purposefully to do that, but you know me, I just have to be different.

Everyone should know by now that I just love carbon fiber accessories and A&J Performance came to the rescue with a new carbon fiber front fender. It’s lightweight, strong, flexible and very cool to look at. It matches the carbon fiber inner dash we installed last year and is relatively inexpensive. So give them a call, check out all the other accessories and tell them Guy sent you.

maxton_fntfender

Remember that we are building a motor and bike to be able to take redline RPM’s for a long distance and at high MPH to boot. So when you get a 478lb+ bike and add an 180lb+ rider with leathers and hurtle down the track at over 200MPH, it can take a terrible toll on your brakes. There is no other item on this bike that is more important than these babies. I needed to junk the stock brake lines and get some real help and Charles at Street and Track Import Accessories had exactly what we needed. Charles knew exactly what to send me, a complete set of clutch and brake lines from Hel. The Hel Brand Brake line kit came with everything I needed to install these new lines right down to the new banjo bolts and washers. You can get them in a variety of colors and they are Kevlar coated stainless lines so you are getting the best.

maxton_paintjob

Rob Barrera of Auto Illusions in Curtis, OH provided custom paint and artwork of my logo for Tiger Racing. Every one of my bikes has always had the Tiger painted on them in some way or another. Auto Illusions is one of those custom paint houses that can replicate anything you can think of and do it in a timely manner, which is normally unheard of in the Custom Paint industry. Not only is Rob a wonderful artist, he works tirelessly to get your bodywork, helmet or whatever you’re having done by him finished quickly. He knows how much it means to you to have a professional job done right, but also done fast. The Maximum Performance Pro-Modified Drag bike was also one of Auto Illusions’ masterpieces. When you call, ask for Rob or Captain Purple.

maxton_promod

I have installed a ton of add on accessories for the Dragbike.com / Maximum Performance Hayabusa and I only have to go to one place, Schnitz Racing! You can go online or call them on their 800 number; it’s your choice. Dave Schnitz stocks just about every accessory you can think of for the Mighty Busa and if he doesn’t have it, he’ll get it! From my polished Reservoir covers to my Chrome Dash Instrument Cover, Schnitz Racing is my toy store and my wife just hates it. Hehehe You can even call and talk with Ryan Schnitz for tech support about your ZX12R (whatever those are).

maxton_armedready

Set-up for the Maxton Monster Motor

  • NOS Jets – 20-24
  • Fuel Pressure – 4lb flowing
  • Cams – 106 – 108
  • Pistons – 84mm high dome custom – .015″ in the hole
  • Gearing – 19 – 38 (long winded for high mph)
  • Chassis – 2″ off ground from front to rear
  • Fuel – VP-16

Special Thanks to my darling wife Dianna, without her none of this would have been possible. Thank you sweetheart for not strangling me once you saw the bills.

We also wish to extend a special thanks to the following companies that helped make this project possible.

Maximum Performance CyclesSchnitz Racing,  Street & Track Import Accessories, McIntosh Machine & Fabrication, Web Cam Inc., Fast by Gast, A & J Performance, X-treme Cycles, APE, and Brock’s Performance.

Guy

 

Until Next Time, Safe Racing to All!
Guy Caputo

Write a Comment

Only registered users can comment.